| Author |
Topic: DP Harma's Sassafras Freezing technique
Modified |
scwam Member |
posted 05-09-99 03:30 PM
This is a modification that my chinchilla filled me in on the other day.
He says you'll need: a 70-90mm buchner funnel with any thin filter, a
STRONG suction devise (chinchilla used a recently ripped off refridg pump,
although "mouth suction" will work somewhat to take out the yellow color
but wont make the sass clear), a 250ml filter flask, tubing to fill on the
sidearm, frozen sass in a 10 oz liquour bottle (with screwcap) or larger.
Turn your fridge and freezer up to the coldest level possible. It will
take 2 or 3 days for it to get down to that max temp(amount of time
depends on how much you have in your freezer, and the more you have in
there, the more stable that temp becomes after it is reached, so have alot
of frozen foods to act as an insulator). After 3 days the temp should be
between -18c and -22c (most will go to -18c), warmer than -18c was not
tested, so dont know if it will freeze if -17c. DP Harma's freezing
technique is excellent but seems a little meticulous, its actually much
easier than he makes it to sound (so he needs more credit for that writing
than he's been getting. Getting the stuff to freeze is the trick. Usually,
if you place a bottle of sass in the freezer, it wont freeze without
opening it after it reaches it max cold point. It usually requires you to
get it down to -18c or colder and then open the bottle up to expose it to
air. The more air/liquid surface area exposure, the better chance of
freezing. So, dont use those little 1oz NOW brand bottles to freeze it in.
Use a liquor bottle. Chinchilla used a 750ml malabu run bottle filled to
the rim with oil with a screw top. Open the bottle and let it sit at room
temp for 5 min, put it back in the freeze with the cap closed and let it
sit for at least 30 minutes. If it doesnt freeze, dont worry, it will upon
doing repetitions of this. If it does not freeze after 2 attempts of this
and the temp is -18c or lower, then put it in the fridge section with the
cap open and let it sit in the coldest part of the fridge, bottle open,
for 10 or 15 minutes. Put it back in the freezer closed cap or open cap,
probably doesnt matter. But close the cap after 15 minute of being in the
fridge if not frozen by then. If you still have no luck then you need to
switch to using a open glass container (flour jar, etc), that has some
surface area to expose the liquid to air while its at its lowest temp.
Take the large top off of this glass container and expose it in the
freezer (in the coldest area) for 1 hour or more. When your oil is at its
coldest, pour only a capful of oil or just enough to cover the surface of
the container with a thin film of oil. It might start developing crystals
immediately or may not. Either way, throw it back into the freezer with
the cover/or not the cover, may not matter. Within a day at the most, it
should crystalize. If not, then intermitently expose the open container to
room temp for 3 minutes and place back in the freezer. crystals should
come out in hours or even minutes. If not then You need to try a differnt
oil. Something is wrong with that shit you got. Chinchilla has tried this
with at least 5 different brands and only the NOW brand was the most
difficult to freeze. The key to getting the cyrstallization to begin is to
expose the ice cold oil to air (usually room temp is the only way it
works), but dont let it stay out more than 5 minutes. Once you've gotten
the capfull to freeze over, scrape that frozen sass into the ice cold
mother load of sass you got. The shit should start instantly turning into
slush from the neck of the bottle down to the bottom (temp must be max
cold before you transfer). This whole 750 ml of oil turns to a milky slush
in 10 minutes. Dont shake it within the first 30 seconds of it changing
its state, or it will stop or reverse. By using good judgement, estimate
when you can start shaking the mix so it DOES NOT change completly to hard
ice where you cant get it out of the bottle. Shake it so the rate of
freezing is at an equilibrium of the rate of reversing it back to a slush
mixture. You can tell this by the sound of the shaking. Put it back in the
freezer for 10 minutes with freezer blowing and let it get slightly
colder. In the meantime, put your buchner funnel in the freezer for 5 or
ten minutes to let it cool down. Then, place it over the top of the filter
flask and get the vacuum source connected to the sidearm. Shake the large
bottle of continuously freezing slush enough to loosen the ice up from
blocking the bottle neck and to make it into a homologous slush mix. Pout
the slush into to buchner and turn the vac source on, YOU WONT BELIEVE how
yellow liquid get sucked into the flask and an snow-white ice stays in the
funnel as a compacted frozen solid. You can keep doing this as long as you
feel the ice is significant enough to freeze the remaining slush that you
pour in. Its a hell of alot easier than im making this out to be, as I saw
a chinchilla do this on 2 attempts, both successfull. You can even break
up the frozen shit in the buchner and mix it into a slush again to filter
out the remaining frozen yellow crap. By doing this over a 8-10 minute
time, chinchilla obtained: an ugly yellow cloudy mix in the flask (a
maximum of 50% the original liquid) and then an ice white stuff in the
funnel that could fool anyone to be ground up ice to be topped with their
favourite flavour. Once that was melted, the stuff came over in its melted
form as a clear water. NO SHIT! If you only get it to be a cloudy white
then you have good suction, but if you get it to come over clear when its
melted at room temp, You got kick ass suction. If you got cloudy white,
you can put that bottle under hot water for 3 minutes and it turns clear
and then back to cloudy white when at room temp. Chinchilla's fridge pump
broken in the second process of doing this and he used his mouth to suck
the stuff from the filter flask instead. But instead, he changed the
buchner funnel to a 250ml sep funnel and shook the stuff in that to make
it slush and filter it out of the sep funnel into the flask. Worked enough
to get it cloudy white with no yellow. The smell of the clear stuff is
nothing like the smell of out of-the-bottle sass or the left over yellow
shit. It much lighter in smell, not strong at all, has a degree of a
differnt spicy bouquet. As this is the first time ever seeing this stuff,
does it sound like it's goods? (DP Harma, thanks for Your inspiration on
this experiment)
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microlab Junior
Member |
posted 05-09-99 10:35 PM
You may want to do a base wash with 5% NaOH soln. too. i did this on what
seemed to be very nice yellowish clear oil and the base layer turned yuck
brown and the sass layer turned cloudy white. (WARNING! it may form a
shitty emusion that can be cleared up with a vac filter) then i did
another wash with just water until the water stayed clear. this removed
the eugenol and some other shit that was in the oil. i may move on to the
freezing technique but i don't want to freeze my coke and milk also
microlab
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scwam Member |
posted 10-25-1999 11:23 PM
Now any jackass can freeze sass. No more, it cant be done remarks, it can
be done! We're all aware vacuums lower bp's. So, on the opposite end, most
liquids, when put under pressure will have a different mp/freezing point.
Higher pressures will raise freezing points. And thanks to Ketones KRV/SRV
any jackass can freeze his favorite oil.
Prefreeze your oil as cold as possible. Make a KRV/SRV with the
standard tire valve but try to obtain a 3 liter bottle instead of a 2
liter bottle. Put the bottle in the freezer for 1 hour. Pour in
your prechilled (~ -12c) oil in the KRV and pressurize to 50 PSI. Put
back into freezer and let the think do its own while you go
masturbate. After 1 hour the amount you pour in (~ 125 ml or so) will
freeze. Release the pressure, add the remaining oil to this frozen
solid and voila! The rest is history. It will freeze and stay frozen
like this very easily from then on.
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Osmium Member |
posted 10-26-1999 11:12 AM
I'm not sure, but I guess opening the bottle helps because dust or frozen
humidity from the air could act as initiators to the crystallisation. If
the oil is stubborn, try adding a boiling stone or scratch with a
wire. Does pressure really have an effect on freezing point? If at all
I'd expect pressure to lower the freezing point instead of raising?
Whatever works for you.
I always used the freezing of safrole to further purify my pre-honey.
It works very well with distilled material. But you have to approach this
a little differently: 1) Always let it crystallise very slowly. The
slower the better. 2) It helps to have some seed crystals in the
freezer, although this is not really necessary unless you are in a
hurry. 3) When most of the safrole is frozen, carefully pour away the
still liquid portion. Do not discard it, collect and recycle. 4) Repeat
several times. Each time the purity of the safrole will be higher (proven
by measuring crystallisation temperature). 5) Work up the decantations,
by either collecting the same fractions or combining and refreezing them
or redestilling them. 6) Result: great yields of (soon-to-be difficult
to find) safrole, with almost textbook-perfect melting point.
|
dpHarma Member |
posted 10-26-1999 12:01 PM
Thenk yew, thenk yew very much! schwam you are too cool
dpHarma
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scwam Member |
posted 10-27-1999 01:11 PM
I was not sure if this pressure thing was going to be the case, just
thought about it and researched it. I found 2 sources that stated the most
liquids will have a higher (warmer) freezing point when exposed to higher
pressures. They noted some exception with water though. So far, its been
reproduced a few times with amazing results compared to no pressure at
all. Rain forms from condensation around a nucleus (dust particle), so do
crystals, you need a nucleus for the crystals to attach to and expand. I
believe this is where the open container mentioned above came in as dust
probably settled on the oil. Maybe this is why it was so easy to
crystalize in the spring from all the pollen. Osmium, instead of pouring
the oil, the oil is just thrown into a buchner with a minimum 22mm hg
vacuum and sucked right through in 5 seconds, leaving pure white crystals
that have a distinct "dry" and fluffy characteristic of which does not
melt easily at room temp, even when left out for 1 hour. In fact, the shit
is hard as hell to melt after separation. Once crystallization begines,
lookout, before you know it, the shit is all over growing spreading like
the plague. Some bottles even expressed their crystals as huge 5mm wide by
25mm long shards. Whoever decideds to use this method, I highly suggest
not even bothering with my previous advise of leaving the oil out in room
temp every hour. Just throw it in the KRV with a shake of a feather duster
above the oil and pressurize. No hassles and no babysitting. Osmium, I
have a question: chemfinder states eugenol has a mp of 15.4c. If so, this
means traces of eugenol are in the crystals. With no glass, would this be
a problem in the Wacker? Also, when the KRV was blown to 50psi with the
oil, Pure 02 was used since no footpump was available. It was left like
this for 1 hour. This should not be a problem right? Is there anything
wrong with converting alkene to iso and throwing that iso into the wacker,
maybe it helps the wacker skip that step and proceed more efficiently.
No?
|
Niels
Bohr Member |
posted 10-27-1999 06:02 PM
I had a hard time freezing the oil at first. I got radical on it by using
a dry ice-acetone bath, and it worked. I kept the seed crystals.
So chill your raw oil to at least -15 C, dip a stirring rod into your
vessel of seed crystals, and place stirring rod in chilled raw oil and -
presto! Beautiful ice!
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whoops Member |
posted 10-28-1999 12:57 AM
Very good
Yes presure has alot to do with it, instead of scratching try a blast of
pen laser light!
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APOPLEX Junior
Member |
posted 11-15-1999 04:53 PM
In the last few days I tried to purify my Sassy oil (Sassafras
albidium) like this way:
First I washed the Sassy with 5% NaOH, then three times with dH2O to
remove the Eugenole.
Then I put the remaining oil in my distilling Set-up and boiled off
any remainig water at atm. pressure and discardet this. After I checked
the sealings I pumped all the air out with my lousy water aspirator.
Then I heated the reaction Flask wich was sitting in peanut oil on
an normal hotplate.
The temp rose to 110°C, 120°C, 130°C, but nothing came over. So I
rechecked my vacuum, but it was ok. Then at about 150°C a clear liquid
starts to come over. I hold this temp, and with a little help of my
aspirator most of the oil (about 90%) came over as a absolutly clear oil.
I supposed thats the Safrole, but I was not sure if it is clean.
So I put this clear oil in the freezer an go to bed. The next day the
whole oil had been frozen like ice. I crushed this ice to snow, wich was
really absolutly white.
Then I let it stand for a while at room temp by measuring the
temperature.
Even at +6°C it was absolutly solid and no liquid has formed. A liitle
later it melts again to this clear liquid described before at about
+11°C, and thats the mp of pure safrole !
After these test I think this is very pure Safrole, but one question:
where is the phellandrene, pine and champhor ?
Only a very strange smelling yellow-brown liquid was remaining in the
reaction flask. But this could not be the phellandrene, pine or
champhor, because it defenitly has a higer bp as the supposed safrole.
Could it be, that my Sassafras albidium only contain Safrole (about
90%), Eugenole (about 3%) and the yellow-brown crap (about 7%).
What did you think about this ?
Any comments, experiences ?
-------------------- APOPLEX
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Niels
Bohr Member |
posted 11-15-1999 08:47 PM
I think that you missed the lower boiling fraction of camphor, et. al. It
usually comes over at 150-180 deg. at atmospheric pressure. There is not
very much if you are using Brazilian. My nose says it smells nasty! Very
distinctive compared to the licorice smelling honey. When I distill in
100ml batches, only 4-6ml of nastyness comes over first. Never distill to
dryness if at atmospheric or it will leave tar. Use mineral oil or
cottenseed oil in the pre-honey to keep from charring.
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Niels
Bohr Member |
posted 11-15-1999 08:54 PM
Furthermore, above bee is correct. I've spread mine in a crystallization
dish - just enough to cover the glass, only a very thin layer. Put it in
your cold-to-the-max freezer, and beautiful 5-10mm of sharp ice covers the
dish. Save this for seed.
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scwam Member |
posted 11-16-1999 04:23 AM
Take that safrol and make it to about 15c and take a glass jar or some
type of glass container that has a large surface area and put it in the
freezer to make it as cold as possible. Take the prechilled unfrozen
safrol and then slowly pour about 50ml into the glass container. Watch
what happens and how the crystals immediately form, sometimes making huge
shards. This was the way I used to get the raw oil to freeze in the
exception that I made both the container and the oil as cold as possible.
But it's very difficult to freeze the raw oil at any temp warmer than -20c
(the is usually the max freeze points of most freezers) with albidium oil.
Therefore, in this case use the KRV pressure routine. You will have no
problem getting it to freeze once you pump 50 psi into the KRV and throw
the unit in the freezer and wait 30minutes. As I stated in an earlier
thread I pumped a 2l bottle to 95PSI with no explosion, So you can
certainly put it higher than 50 PSI to make it freeze with even less
difficulty. Someone I recently spoke to told me he uses freezing as a
subsitute for distilling the sassafras oil. He told him he uses Isobutyl
alcohol (I've never heard of this alcohol before). He said it turns to a
solid at just below room temperature (but chemfinder doesn't support what
he says about this melting point)he drop a frozen mass into a pre-chilled
alotment of oil and the whole mass freezes over.
|
Kipher Junior
Member |
posted 11-16-1999 03:23 PM
Pressure does have an effect on freezing point. Under pressure a substance
will tend to go to its densest phase. So most liquids will turn to solids
under pressure because the solid phase is denser than the liquid phase. On
the other hand there is water, a substance in which the liquid phase is
denser than the solid phase. So increased pressure will lower the freezing
point of water. Another way to think about it is this, water melts when
you apply pressure . . .for example if you put a piece of ice between your
teeth and clench your jaw it melts. Another example is ice skating, the
blade of the ice skate exerts huge amounts of pressure on the ice, causing
it to melt right below the blade, and thus allowing you to skate on the
wet ice. If one were to try and skate on dry ice it would not work because
it is already in its densest state. Sorry for the preceeding aside, but I
some people would enjoy this explanation of freezing point elevation and
depression for curiosities sake.
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FMAN Member |
posted 11-17-1999 06:13 AM
not positive but ice can be cycled on/off by varying only presssure, have
ay consieed ambient gass?
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FMAN Member |
posted 11-17-1999 06:17 AM
modified substance from cold conversion trapaing of gass to netral shift
relates to electricial current really is a gas potential effected by
magnetic domains, answers found in the invisible, nice to see ya
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